Banaras Indian Restaurant & Bar

The room · Photographs forthcoming

Inside the room.

A patient gallery — one image at a time, with a line of prose alongside. The photographs land here as the room is set and the plates leave the kitchen. Until then, the slots hold the room's colour and wait.

The dining room at Banaras — low light, long tables, brass at the edge

Low light, long tables, brass at the edge.

The room is set every evening as the kitchen warms up — candles lit, brass polished, the floor swept by the same hands that finished plating the morning chaat.

The tandoor at Banaras — a single bench, long sheets of roti pulled by hand

One tandoor, a single bench, long sheets.

Lit at four in the afternoon. By the time the room opens, the coals know the shape of what is coming — biryani sealed under dough, roti pulled in long soft sheets, baati turned by hand.

Dum biryani at Banaras — the sealed pot opened at the table, steam rising over saffron rice and goat shoulder

Dum biryani, sealed and opened at the table.

The dough is cracked at the table. Steam first; then rice; then the smell of saffron, ghee, and a goat shoulder that has been on the fire all afternoon.

A long table at nine — plates half-finished, kulhad chai on the way, the room at the speed it was built for

Nine o'clock — the meal at full sentence.

The middle of a long dinner. Plates half-finished. A second paratha asked for. Kulhad chai on the way. The room at the speed it was built for.

The city, close at hand.

The ghats at sunrise, a sadhu in a doorway, a sitar between two songs, a coloured threshold on a back lane — the city the room is named for, never quite out of view.

Painting of a Banarasi musician with a sitar, surrounded by marigolds
Painting of a sadhu in saffron robes at a carved wooden door in Banaras
Painting of a Kathak dancer mid-spin in a green and gold costume
Painting of a brightly coloured Banarasi doorway with milk pails and a bicycle parked outside

06 · Come and see it

The room is set most evenings.

Photographs can only carry so much. Pick an evening online — we will hold a table.